Cerro Chirripó - Hike, Climb and Crawl to the Top!

Cerro Chirripó - Hike, Climb and Crawl to the Top!

11:27 AM Nature , Pura Vida , Travel 0 Comments

We left Monday at 9:30 from Grecia...what was originally supposed to be a trip of 6 ladies, endured with only 2 :)  It was a long, but beautiful drive through the windmills of the Cerro de la Muerte translating to the Mountain of Death along a steep ridge of the Cordillera de Talamanca.  Although it sounds scary, it was quite captivating and not for the faint stomach with sudden drops, twists and turns...not to mention, weather defying views.  One minute the sky is clear and blue, the next we were submersed in the clouds with little visibility.

The drive from Grecia was nearly 5 hours so we stopped at the famous Chesperitos, and in case you miss the first one due to a packed parking lot, there are 2 more on the way.  Chesperitos is a buffet style restaurant with great hot food selections, highly recommended.  We finally descended below the clouds and arrived in San Gerardo where we first check-in at Sinac, then check our bags at the next check-in by the large plaza & futbol field.  I took a large bag of fruit, so my bag weighed 10 kgs - and at 2.500 colones per kg, that was nearly $50 just for the way up on horseback.  You pay again at the end for the way down on horseback.  After the check-ins, we arrived at our hotel Uran, by the way, Cerro Uran is another incredible peak in the Talamancas.  There are colorful signs and the rushing Río Chirripó along the valley.  The weather is warm and the sounds of the jungle surround the river and hotel with a beautiful spray of Oncidium orchids among every other color of flower, both wild and planted.

We took it easy at the hotel, ate a big bowl of soup and went to bed early since we were told it is best to hit the trail at 3am in order to make it to base camp by lunch time. I highly recommend the tomato soup - it is more like an Aztec soup or Tortilla soup and it was delicious and perfect for a good nights sleep. The hotel is simple, but comfortable with 2 or 3 fluffy, soft beds to a room and a television with very hot showers.  This is important later. Armed with flashlights and light gear, we hit the trail at 3:30am - it is dark and eerie and just up the road about 200 feet from the hotel.  We are alone, for now, but only for a little while, as we just missed the caravan of horses that portered our bags up to base camp, they left at 3am sharp.

We took it slow since it was dark and, luckily, there was a km marker - which is far more rewarding than a mile marker.  In total, there are 14 km to base camp, which is only 8.6 miles, so as you can imagine, it is MUCH more exciting to creep up each kilometer than mile.  I lost cell signal right around marker 4, but Charlotte kept cell signal off and on throughout the 3 days.  I have Movistar and she has Kolbi, so I am only guessing the large cell tower we passed was owned by ICE, so better coverage. We stopped and took pictures at each marker, and were startled by some cows on the way up, but since it was dark, we had no idea what we were passing, and the death defying drops along the steep trail.  The sun finally shed light around marker 5 and the jungle really came alive with whistling birds of all kinds. We even stumbled upon a family of Capuchin monkeys.  The jungle was incredible and we had to stop and look around every turn to really enjoy mother nature - although you have to really keep your eyes on the trail, which is full of jagged rocks and mud at a steep incline.

About half way there is a small hut that offers snacks and hot coffee or tea - much needed since we left the hotel at 3:30 and did not have the opportunity to enjoy a morning cup of Joe.  I brought several PBJs and some fruit, plus plenty of nuts.  Charlotte brought some protein bars and caramel candies which were also a big help. Bring plenty of cash since nothing is included, you have to pay for everything. Don't stay too long at the coffee hut, use the restroom, fill your waters and get back on the trail. Since the way up is so steep, we kept a high heart rate the entire ascent. This keeps you warm, so we never really felt the chill approaching.  Each marker has a name, like the old man's beard was a section of moss covered trees, and Los quemados (burns) was the section of forest fires from 2012.  This was an especially eerie section because the remaining trees reminded us of long dragon's necks sticking out of the hillside, like something out of a fantasy with Vikings and Princesses, or even similar to the movie Avatar.

There was terrific visibility on the way up, although it did not last long. I am glad we took our time because this was truly the most relaxed part of the trip. We were excited and still looking forward to what was in store, but there is so much to see when you ascend nearly 9 miles up a mountain trail.

I did pack a pair of awesome binoculars, but I wish I would have brought them since I really wanted to see a Quetzal - we could hear them, but not see them. As far as modifications to packing, I brought too much.   Below is what I should have packed and will, if I ever do this again:

1. Camelback of water - NOT water bottles
2. hippy pack - also known as a fanny pack, this I would have packed my snacks inside
3. 2 pieces of fruit only, I had 4 inside a plastic bag in a small backpack, totally unnecessary since I could have just tied it around my fanny pack, less is better
4. I brought a windbreaker, but did not need it, as mentioned, on the way up, heart rate keeps you plenty warm
5. Binoculars
6. phone and money - that's it, nothing else!

The views were incredible!! I can't say it enough - just spectacular! We just passed marker 10 and there were 2 guys heading down.  We asked them how far and they said in their Ticoism, "Dos horitas, el quatorce" which means 2 little hours, marker 14. This was a trip because we figured for sure we could complete 4 kms in 2 hours, right?  Oh no, it only got harder from there. By 10:30 we were slowly approaching marker 12 - really feeling the pain, but totally ready to see what else this agonizing trek had to offer as we knew we were only a couple of kms from base camp and soon, we would enjoy a hot lunch, much needed. 

The air does get much thinner near the top and concentrating so hard on each step up became a chore.  We were spent, hungry, excited and just totally ready to arrive!  Peering out from the left, across a deep ridge we finally saw them...duhn duhn DUHN!!! Los Crestones! 

They were magical and grand, and our friend Amy told us they were directly across from Base Camp, so we knew we were there!  There was a huge rock and a small park bench just across from the crestones, where we stopped for our final photo before entering the mess hall at base camp.  I was so tired and a little shaky, plus I am afraid of heights, so I crawled out to have my picture, great for a laugh, I know. Just as I crawled into position, clouds covered the crestones and the temperature plunged. See, once you stop hiking up, your heart rate drops and the chill really hits your aching bones. 

Base Camp 

If I can warn anyone - it is this.  EITHER, make sure you have plenty of games downloaded on your cell phone OR bring a pack of playing cards.  There is Jenga & UNO, and 3 or 4 books, mostly in Spanish, but since there are always about 40 - 50 people at base camp, supplies are limited.  There is no wifi, there are no televisions, no comfy chairs, no fireplace - this is the bare minimum and only picnic tables in a cold, cold room.  The entire place is solar powered, no electricity, so there are designated hours between 5:30 pm - 8pm to charge your phones. Lights are out at 8pm sharp, and the skylights are the only light during the day.  It is really genius, but I would have loved a real chair with a back.  Picnic tables are not comfortable for weary hikers.  Luckily, we were able to source a wall to lean on while we ate and recharged.  The food was delicious and hot. They sold gloves, beanies and Chirripó gear - highly recommended because the weather rolled in and it grew colder and darker with every minute. We checked in, got our room: bunk beds and some lockers, unpacked, layered some warm clothes and decided to wander for a bit. The weather cleared a bit, so we decided to try one of the trails across the gorge towards the Crestones - I mean they are right there!

The trail up was nice, but occasionally, you reach a complete rock cliff and start scaling. Then out of nowhere there are massive boulders just sitting on the side of the cliff, begging for a push.  We had fun with all the photos, but honestly, we were hurting.  As quickly as the weather cleared, it turned for the worse again and started misting on us.  It was not a downpour, but it was wet, so we only made it halfway up and decided to turn back. There was just so much to see and do, but we realized that we were slaves to the weather. 

We tucked in for the night and as soon as dinner is served, we curled up in bed like burritos under the 2 covers given. I wish I would have brought an actual SWEATSUIT because it was so cold. My updated list of what to pack is below because I totally packed the wrong things:

• SWEATSUIT - for sleeping and lounging at base camp
• 1 extra thick fleece hoodie - for all day every day layering
• 1 rain wicking windbreaker rain jacket that fits well - I borrowed mine from my husband and it was too large and cumbersome, possibly a rain poncho
• long pants, long sleeve shirts for layering
• hiking boots are a MUST
• lots of wool socks and plenty of underwear changes
• sun hat and a beanie 
• scarf - very helpful
• fanny pack OR a slim backpack
• camel-back for water NOT water bottles

The reason the plenty of changes of underwear - because the water is 1 degree from freezing so even though there are showers - you have to be insane to use them, like my friend Charlotte who showered twice.  No thank you, I brought wet wipes, that was good enough! The next morning, we were told by our friend and organizer, Amy to wake up again at 3ish to be poised on the peak for sunrise, but guess what?  We woke up at 3am to only hear a thunderstorm down-pouring out side.  So we snoozed for another 30 minutes, until the rain stopped. We hit the trail to the peak at 4am, again, no hot coffee as the kitchen does not serve until 5:30am.  If you have an awesome thermos, possibly filling it up the night before is recommended if you have to have coffee, like me to wake up. 

Everything was wet as we approached the Valle de los Conejos - and yes, we saw a rabbit :) I was a bit sore, but pressing on in the cold, dark, wet morning.  We went downhill 3 times, and back up again, so basically, you scale 3 different mountain ranges before arriving to the bottom of Chirripó summit. We could not see anything because the fog and clouds had taken over all visibility. Looking back, this was probably a plus for me because I am quite afraid of heights and I do get vertigo sometimes, so NOT being able to see probably helped me concentrate.  We kept scaling and reached a rock wall. Charlotte went first and we started climbing. It was slow and treacherous because it was very wet, but what we could not see, was the side of the earth falling off around us. 

YES - that is fear on my face, and perseverance, but mostly fear ;)  Right when I was about to give up, Charlotte screamed out, "Flagpole! I see the flagpole! We did it!"  So I climbed vertically another 15 meters. It was exhilarating, but also depressing because here we are, at the top of this mountain at 7am that supposedly yields views of both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans and we can't see a thing. We snapped our photo and signed our names in the book, but we were deflated and a bit sad.  We questioned if we should stay there a while to see if the clouds would break, but it was so thick, it just did not seem possible. 

We carefully began crawling down and all of a sudden, the clouds parted, the sky opened up and I honestly thought I was going to die - because we were literally hanging on the side of the tip of a mountain and one wrong move, you fall to your death! I was concentrating on my breathing and trying not to look down, but the views just took your breathe away! I was dizzy and emotional because it was like God heard our prayers and gifted us sight! 

So I did NOT die, and I actually enjoyed every step, every fear and every triumph. This is the most extreme hike I have ever made in my life, only followed by Paraíso Mañantiales, in Bajos del toro. At 43 years old, I am conquering my fears and living the dream! 

The weather was not perfect, but the small amount of blue sky was a present of love and appreciation from Mother Nature and this truly inspiring journey. 

We continued to descend and more of the group were crawling up, cheering us on as we were the first of the day to conquer the peak Cerro Chirripó! Ticos tend to touch you on the shoulder and give blessings, so again, I was emotional and proud, even crying a few times in joy. 

At the base of the land bridge in front of the peak, there is another trail to the Valle de los Morenas, basically meaning the brown lakes.  There are about 34 lagoons fed by a spring fed river that runs straight through the gorge.  The water is 57 degrees year round and crystal clear with a waterfall, or several as you can hear the sound the entire time. 

There are plenty of other trails and hikes available, but we decided to head back slowly and get some hot coffee. If the weathers holds, we can go out again later. Magical, Amazing, Grateful.  So the weather was not perfect and we never saw the amazing stars or sunrises or sunsets, but it was still a remarkable trip and rewarding in every way. After a game of UNO, we noticed the clouds clearing at the crestones and a possible sunset. 

We took that opportunity to run out before dinner to try to catch our final opportunity to get a sunset. It was not full of colors, but it was profound.  The weather up here is so powerful.  Many people followed the trail across the gorge to the lookout under the crestones, but we did not pack the proper rain gear for this hike.  We would like to reserve it for next time - should we return, in hopes of better weather. 

The next morning, we waited for the kitchen to open and rewarded ourselves with coffee before disembarking.  The hardest part of the journey lie ahead.  The weather was clear enough so we packed very light.  The horses pick up bags around 6am, so we left just before the horses. The views down were incredible and the pain did not set in until about half way down. It is hard to believe that going down a mountain is so much harder than going up a mountain, but the impact on your feet and knees at those inclines is excruciating.  

There were times when we thought we could not go on.  It rained on us twice on the way down and, as you can imagine, the mud made it even slower and more treacherous. You have be extremely careful to not twist an ankle or pop something.  The last kilometer is by far the hardest, because your toes and feet are numb with pain.  You feel like you can't go on and it is hot and the horse flies and mosquitoes are abundant. This is when I highly recommend music to satisfy the soul and keep you going.  You use less water on the way down as well, but the cold, sweet fruit I brought was a treat and peeling an orange took my mind off the pain. The thought of a cold Pale Ale micro-brew beer was the only thing keeping me going. 

The beer was amazing and we had more than 1 - after a dip in the local hot springs and a hot shower, we were sore and satisfied.  We ate a huge, delicious pesto burger that afternoon and slept like babies that night. Some people have asked if I will ever do it again, and I said ask me again later.  Today, I think I can and I will, with better weather and proper packing, I would definitely go back again. Pura Vida!